1. Don't perform mono-culture. No till mono-culture works about as well as cleaning your whole house with a toothbrush. In theory, it could possibly be done, but it will take a long time and you'll encounter a lot of problems. Always diversify.

2. If you first start to plant or transplant into your no-till soil and it's brand new or new for the season, you should be able to see the soil. But after that, If you can see the soil, you're not actually stewarding enough life. In fact, if you can see the soil, you're wasting water and promoting soil erosion. You will want mosses, ground covers, nitrogen fixers, nutrient miners, etc; growing right alongside everything in you garden ALONG WITH some sort of covering; I use untreated barley or wheat straw or else woodchips [though woodchips require more nitrogen fixing plants to be grown because they can leach nitrogen from the growing area]. The diversity of what you grow is critical. I would use this blend of cover crop seeds as well as a host of brassicas [especially mustard greens and Asian Greens] and ground-covers to be broadcast around whatever you are actually trying to grow in that area. All of these things will grow up with your plants and you just keep trimming them back every couple weeks and using those trimmings in a green mulch [see below].


5. Get some 1 Gallon and 5 gallon buckets and make Jadam Fertilizers each season from your plants. Jadam is just the Korean term for 'Anaerobic Endogenous Ferment', so all you need is a bucket, plant material, water, and a rock to use as a weight to keep the plant material below the surface of the water. Typically, Chamomile, Valerian Flowers, Tomato Greens, Tomato Flowers, and any of your cover crops [like Clover, Vetch, etc] all work great. They each have a slightly different use based on what chemicals they contain. But you can find out what they contain and in approximately how many ppm's by using Dr Duke's Phytochemical and Ethnobotanical Database search engine which is free online. Apply Jadam only as necessary as a fertilizer depending on the stage of life of your plant. For instance, apply a tomato sprout jadam to encourage sprouting - never more than a 1:200 dilution. Tomato greens jadam application diluted at 1:200 to 1:20 ratio in water during vegetative phase. Or a tomato flower jadam application diluted the same way during flowering phase.


If you follow these rules, you will be BUILDING your soil and this will allow for great growth. If you experience any insect issues, then you need to focus on adding more paramagnetic value and ensuring that the microbes you are introducing are sufficient to make the nutrients available from the rock dusts. This will keep the insects away and it's a hell of a lot easier than performing ongoing IPM methods. Though some IPM methods, like foliar sprays, are a great thing, especially to help your plants stay resistant to the heat, develop thick, healthy foliage, and to inhibit pests like aphids, spider mites, and powdery mildew. But if you have the right paragmagnetic values in your soil, then those shouldn't be an issue in the first place.
Do this, and it will save you a fortune and give you the best, most nutrient dense produce you have ever tasted. Guaranteed. And ironically, even though it might seem like a lot right now, it is FAR less work to do things this way than in any other method of gardening you can imagine. You literally just end up having 2 days a month [full moon and new moon] of work instead of spending up to several days for a few hours each time a new problem comes up.